Finally, after fourteen years, I have it all typed up and ready to share with the rest of the world. Some of it's silly, but some of it's sobering. This will take a while to read. I also plan to gradually add pictures. Enjoy.
Phoenix to Los Angeles/ Friday, 25 May 1990
My journey starts modestly at 5:30 p.m. when my neighbor, Cindy (she’s taking care of my house and my cat while I’m gone), drives me to the airport.
********
Check in at the America West counter went very quickly (I was very surprised).
*********
Upon reaching the departure gate, I come across two fellow choir members, B and R. They happen to be taking the flight just before mine. We have a good chat, and then off they go.
*********
Finally it’s time for my flight. Nice plane – one of the newer 737’s. I have a window seat on the right side of the plane. The passenger next to me is an America West flight attendant (that’s different).
**********
Arrive LAX about 8:30 p.m. D’s there right where he should be.
***********
After my luggage shows up, we take off and head for the nearest Pizza Hut for a final taste of America – a Pepperoni Lover’s pizza (pan crust). We go for the Special – an extra pizza for only $4.00 (can’t resist). Look like we’ll have a Meat Lover’s pizza for breakfast.
**********
I unpack all my stuff (I did not pack with a whole lot of finesse). Time to really organize it and leave the unnecessary extras behind [and repack].
**********
D informs me that Elmo (the rubber chicken) is going on the trip (complete with jockstrap). This will be a fun and crazy trip.
***********
People have asked if I’m nervous about this trip. I guess now I am – it’s finally hitting me what I’m about to undertake. All the preparation and hard work are coming to fruition – after all, I’m here in L.A. “The greatest journey,” it is said, “begins with the smallest step.” I’ve taken that step, and tomorrow, I take an even bigger one. I hope all goes well. The adrenaline is flowing, and fear of the unknown has crept in. Well, I guess that’s to be expected.
***********
Los Angeles, California/ Saturday, 26 May 1990, 9:30 a.m.
Here I am at the Tom Bradley International Terminal at LAX – ticket in hand, along with passport and visa. Our group is here. Getting exciting.
************
12:20 p.m.
Now we’re on the plane, crammed in like sardines on a Soviet-built airliner. I have the middle seat. D is to my left and J is to my right.
************
Somewhere over Canada/ 10:30 p.m. (Montreal time)/4:30 a.m. (Warsaw time)
Well it’s been an interesting flight so far. It’s still a little cramped, but I’ve now managed to get my carry-on luggage under the seat (there’s no room above). The food on the flight so far has been wonderful! There was this great salad with marinated beets and potatoes (?). We had a brief stay in Montreal while the plane was refueled and flight crews were changed. We waited in the transit lounge in the airport while this was going on – a beautiful facility. The weather was pretty nice, too. I also have to mention that the pilot (on our first leg) made the most beautiful and smoothest landing I’ve ever experienced. We weren’t even sure the wheels were on the ground when we touched down!
************
Now we leave Montreal behind and soon Canada will be behind us. It’s dark outside now. I see the moon and a bright star (probably the planet Venus) to my left and a little behind me. I also see city lights off to the north of us – probably Quebec City. I also see something else I’ve never seen before – off to the distant northern horizon I can see a faint twilight.
***************
It’s my guess that our flight path will take us out over Greenland, then on to Europe. For now, I’m going to try and get some sleep.
**************
Somewhere over the North Atlantic/ Sunday, 27 May 1990, 5:21 a.m. (Warsaw time)
It seems I’ve stirred up quite a hub-bub on the plane (at least the left side of it). I was taking a look out the window to observe the distant twilight on the northern horizon when something else caught my eye – the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). Very fascinating – very beautiful. It’s mostly green, but you can see curtains of light dancing across the sky (the twilight is still there, too). D and J and I have played “musical chairs” so we could all see the lights. Now everyone’s looking out to the left side windows to glimpse this fantastic phenomenon. Looking at these dancing curtains of light make me feel pretty small in comparison to the universe.
*************
Somewhere over the North Sea/ 11:14 a.m. (Warsaw time)
We are now approaching our destination. Saw the northern part of Great Britain. Also saw a distant shoreline (either Norway or Denmark). However as we approach the European mainland, it appears totally hidden under the clouds.
*************
Warsaw, Poland/ 3:32 p.m.
We’re all hanging out at the transit lounge in the Warsaw airport. Some are sleeping, some are talking. This is a fascinating place to watch people. There’s people from all over the world. There is a couple from China behind me, some Indians, and a wide mixture of Europeans and Americans. Our flight to Moscow leaves at 5:05 p.m. Once in a while you see soldiers, but they appear just like any American policeman (with sidearm and walkie-talkie) in our own airports; only the uniform is different.
**************
I’m rather tired, but sleep is hard to come by – I just try to catch a wink here and there.
***************
Our approach into Warsaw was quite enjoyable – this is a very beautiful part of the world. There’s green everywhere with farms and woodlands interspersed.
****************
Moscow, Russia, U.S.S.R./ Monday, 28 May 1990, 7:23 a.m.
Now D and I are in our hotel room in Moscow. I have the radio on – it sounds like an exercise program (piano music at just the right tempo and a woman’s voice interceding at just the right times). Our room is humble, but comfortable. Outside we can see the typical box-style apartment buildings common in Moscow, along with the construction cranes building more of them. It is a beautiful, clear day out, and fairly warm. It was rather cold when we arrived at our hotel, but today it doesn’t appear that I’ll even need a sweater. Outside I can see the Muscovites on the street below waiting for the Metro, and the hustle and bustle of rush hour traffic. The traffic is pretty brisk, even when you consider automobiles are not as commonplace as they are in the U.S. The Soviets have a somewhat different composition in their motor fuel. The exhaust has a smell which reminds you of a skunk.
*************
The time difference is still getting to me (although I think I’ve had sufficient sleep to compensate for the jet lag). We went to bed last night when it was about noon in Phoenix. Now we’re up and about and it now 8:30 p.m. on the same date. It’s also strange to be in the northern latitudes. We left the airport at 10:30 p.m. – just after sunset, and we were able to see the city in twilight all the way to our hotel. At around midnight, a slight twilight glow was still barely perceptible. It was daylight again around 3 or 4 a.m. Strange for a mid-latitude resident.
************
It’s also strange to realize that the time it took from when we left Los Angeles and arrived in Moscow was 22 hours. But in that 22 hours I witnessed a sunset, the Northern Lights (during a brief night), a sunrise, and another sunset. But also when you take into account the 11-hour time differential, it feels like the full 33 hours.
************
D has made an interesting observation while listening to the radio. We probably sound very similar to our pets when we talk to them – they hear a familiar word like their name – but the rest is all gibberish.
*************
I forgot to mention another aspect of our hotel room – it’s bugged – just like in the books and movies. Whether anyone is listening in this age of reform in the Soviet Union is another question. But we don’t care.
************
Anyhow, it is very exciting to be sitting here in the middle of the Soviet Union after all the anticipation.
*************
Near the Estonian-Russian border, U.S.S.R./ Tuesday, 29 May 1990, 7:45 a.m. (Moscow time)
[Pardon me if this entry looks a little scribbled] – I’m writing this on the Moscow-Tallinn train.
****************
Well, our day in Moscow was somewhat a comedy of errors. But all in all, our group has shown a lot of class in the face of absurdity – it also has helped us to experience some things we might not done otherwise.
**************
We had our breakfast in the restaurant of the hotel we stayed at. Then we found that our buses had not arrived. After much waiting and finally taking care of luggage [in our hotel rooms], we walked over to the Metro station nearby and took the subway into the center of Moscow. We shoved our way into the crowded cars. The subway train moves quite fast (it starts and stops on a dime). We ended up at the Marx Prospect station which is right next to the Bolshoi. From there we walked over to Red Square where everyone took pictures galore of St. Basil’s Cathedral, the Kremlin, and the square itself. Then we rushed back to take the subway back to our hotel. By then we found out that the travel arrangements to Tallinn were not going as expected, and we were divided into three groups (and so was our luggage). One group would stay in Moscow and fly to Tallinn in the morning. Another group would fly out tonight. The [third] group would take the train to Tallinn as planned (I’m in this group). Meanwhile our concert in Moscow has been cancelled because we have no buses to take us there; so it is decided we’ll take the subway to the downtown for lunch and more sightseeing. But wait! There are two buses outside the hotel doing nothing, and Sylvia, one of our tour guides has bribed one of the drivers to take us there (which is probably what happened to the original buses anyway). We went downtown to a hotel and had a late lunch. Then we took off again and got dropped off by the Kremlin walls to take in the sight there. What magnificent buildings!
************
Moscow has quite a few entrepreneurs. I was approached by many who asked if I was American, and when I said yes, was offered such items as rubles, Soviet military apparel, etc. (all black market). In fact, the area just on the outside of the Kremlin’s western wall is a bustling marketplace. While maNy outsiders wonder if the Soviet Union could adapt to a free-market economy, I have the utmost confidence in the Soviet people – many are already practicing capitalists.
************
Well, after our sightseeing tour, we returned to the Bolshoi Theater where, amazingly enough and according to plan, our bus arrived.
***************
We arrived at the train station, and after finally figuring out what was going on and barely making it on time, we were on our way to Tallinn. We all got on one car (of course the non-choir members were kicked out and sent to other cars). D and I are sharing our compartment with S and T (and Elmo, the rubber chicken). It was a fun night with this group. We had our own little music rehearsal, a few poker games (with M&M’s as chips), and the long walk down through the moving train to get a Pepsi or two in the dining car.
**************
The Pepsi here (like all the other soft drinks we’ve had here and on the way here) tastes a little different, but it’s okay.
**************
Now it’s morning (although I never saw it get truly dark) and we’re all up and about and awaiting our arrival in Tallinn (and wondering if we’ll ever see the other two groups).
*************
Tallinn, Estonia, U.S.S.R./ Wednesday, 30 May 1990, 9:40 p.m.
It’s been a while since my last entry – and it’s been very busy. So now I’ll catch up writing on the latest events (hopefully before the sun peeks out from behind that cloud and shines in my face again – geez – I still can’t get used to that!).
************
Anyway, we got into the train station at Tallinn at 10:45 a.m. Much to our delight (and as planned), the group flying out of Moscow the previous night was there, and the last remaining group arrived about an hour after we did. It was a nice reunion, and we all swapped stories of the previous night.
************
Our hotel is fantastic. It is a very comfortable room with a modern bathroom (including hot water!) and the most fantastic view I’ve seen from a hotel room window. From here I can see old town Tallinn and the bay leading into the Gulf of Finland. After a nice, long, decadent (as D would put it) shower, and lunch, I did some exploring with Dr. S, GS, and MB (our organist). We arrived at the music hall to check it out. We even found posters (in Estonian) advertising our concert. Anyhow, it is a beautiful facility. The room we sang in looked like something out of the movie
Amadeus, complete with chandeliers.
************
The concert was a very special experience. The audience was mesmerized. And when they heard
Battle Hymn of the Republic, they were moved deeply, and their reaction moved us as well. But the real interaction came up at the end [of the concert]. Our final selection was the
Good Night Canon from which we segued right into our rendition of the Estonian national anthem. We sang it with all our hearts (it was hard not to – in the short time we had been in Tallinn, we had fallen deeply in love with the city, the nation, and its people). They were astounded and very deeply moved. I myself was rather choked up.
************
After the concert, we were whisked out to a castle in Tallinn where we were serenaded by a local women’s chorus. It was wonderful, and the reception that followed was also wonderful as we met with the choir members.
************
We feel a strong bond with the Estonian people. Like us, they cherish freedom as much as we do. They are an extremely proud people and all they wish for is to be free like us. This and recent events have helped us to cement a strong bond with these people.
************
Since our fiasco in Moscow, we have since learned that this has been due to a ridiculous bigotry and total disregard for dignity on the part of the Russians. Our tour guides on this trip, S and Y, are Estonian. And Moscow has been totally uncooperative in terms of the travel arrangements. And as a result, we innocent travelers have been the victims [of political maneuvering]. We also learned from our Estonian hosts that they were informed by Moscow that our visas were not approved, and not to expect us. This has angered us all in the choir, and we feel more strongly in favor of independence for Estonia and any other republic which wants to break off from the U.S.S.R.
***********
We also heard rumors tonight that Boris Yeltsin was chosen as president of the Soviet Union. I have not seen any of this news anywhere, but I’m sure they have (if it’s true) back home. Thing seem to be changing right before our eyes.
************
It’s really interesting to compare Tallinn with Moscow. In Moscow, the people seem to be unhappy. It is an unhappy looking city. Outside the glitz of Red Square and the Kremlin, the rest of Moscow looks to be a depressing slum.
**************
Tallinn, however, still has the character and pride of its medieval origins, and the people show it. The people appear to be somewhat happy – they stand tall and they smile much more than the Muscovites. All they want is the freedom to make their own decisions on their own destinies – and they deserve it.
***********
Anyhow, this morning, we had a delightful tour of the old town (established in the 11th Century). It is a delightful place with narrow cobblestone streets and old architecture. Within, we went into an old castle and a beautiful Russian Orthodox church. Inside (we were able to go in) there was even a funeral going on. The service was interesting to witness.
*************
Across from the church is the assembly hall where the Estonian legislature meets. This is where dramatic history took place in just the past few weeks. The Estonians had just declared their independence, and replaced the flag of the U.S.S.R. with one of their own. Soon after, however, the U.S.S.R. flag was put back up. When this happened, all Estonians were called upon to leave their homes and close their businesses so they could demonstrate their dissatisfaction. They all showed up in front of the assembly hall and demanded that the Soviet officials leave the building. They complied, and none of the Estonians even touched them as they left. The Estonian flag was put back up and has stayed up since. The building is guarded by Estonian teenagers (unarmed, and not uniformed except for the armband signifying Estonia’s colors) to prevent the Russians from coming in again. D suggested that we applaud them, and we did.
*************
Another place we visited was a 13th Century Lutheran church. Inside, the organist and a viola player were playing (which added to the ambiance). M (our own organist) was in our particular tour group and went up to ask if he could play the organ. He did. Then S played her flute. Then the rest of us sang “Praise God.” What a moment!
*************
Leningrad, Russia, U.S.S.R./ Friday, 1 June 1990, 7:44 a.m.
It’s getting difficult to get everything down in this journal. We’re now approaching Leningrad on the train, so I’ll take advantage of this time.
**************
We enjoyed our time in Tallinn. Some other things I experienced included ice cream (twice), the beriozki (hard currency) store, Soviet hamburgers, and another walk through Tallinn.
*************
Yesterday we also visited an open-air museum on the outskirts of Tallinn. This museum is basically the Estonian version of the Pioneer Living History Museum outside of Phoenix. On display were old Estonian farms, houses, windmill, and a church. Again, we found an organ in the church, and again it was played (this time D played it), and again we sang (Randall Thompson’s
Alleluia). There just seems to be something about churches here that makes this group want to sing.
***************
We also visited the amphitheater outside the other side of town. It is the largest one in the world, and next summer, it will be the site of the largest choral festival ever held, with some 27,000 Soviet and American singers.
************
During [yesterday] afternoon, I explored old Tallinn. Then I found a music store (the prices are incredibly low compared to those in the U.S.) I also walked around the outer perimeter for some more pictures.
***********
One thing to point out is that throughout our visit to Tallinn, there are flowers blooming everywhere. A lot of places look like a scene from the Sound of Music.
************
Back in the hotel, while we were waiting for the bus to take us to the train station, we had quite a few laughs. Elmo the chicken was there, and so was BG’s teddy bear. There were photo opportunities galore.
***********
At the train station, we were met by some of the members of the women’s chorus we had met Tuesday night. They gave us all flowers. One asked me how I felt. I told her that I was sad to be leaving Estonia, that I felt so welcome by these warm and loving people. I also told her I would do my best to help their cause for the freedom they so much desire and so much deserve.
*************
We have heard confirmation of Boris Yeltsin’s election as president (of Russia or the Soviet Union as a whole, I am still not sure). Either way, it will be a boost for the independence movement of the Baltic republics. Gorbachev is not well-liked here, and most believe he is too incompetent to be negotiating with the U.S. I know that back home, most people love him (and he has brought the USSR this far). But I now tend to agree that it’s time for the new leadership that supports the independence of the Baltic states. By the way, we’ve also heard that Leningrad has refused to honor the blockade imposed upon Lithuania by Moscow.
**************
Oh – I almost forgot. On Wednesday night, we saw a performance of Richard Strauss’
Elektra. It was an interesting rendition of the story from Greek mythology.
***********
Last night on the train was the usual fun. Singing, carousing around, poker games, etc.
************
Well, we’ve made the last stop before Leningrad – time to get ready.
*****************
Leningrad, Russia, U.S.S.R./ Friday, 1 June 1990, 10:49 p.m.
The weather sure can be strange here. The sun was shining brightly when we approached Leningrad, but as we got closer it got cloudier and cloudier. When we were actually in Leningrad, it was overcast and a little foggy.
***************
After arriving at our hotel and eating breakfast, we took a bus tour around the city and saw the sights (several palaces and churches). It was pretty much a quick tour, but we’ll see some more detail in the next few days.
******************
Leningrad, like Moscow, appears rather drab and dirty when you get away from the older part of the city. Tallinn was definitely a cheerful place in comparison to Moscow (as stated earlier) and even Leningrad. But Leningrad does have many beautiful sights. It truly is
Venice of the North.
******************
One thing that makes this city unpleasant, however, is all the black market entrepreneurs hounding you here. If I had a dime for everyone who wanted to exchange money with me, I’d be awfully rich.
****************
Tonight was fun. D, C, and I had a poker game using over-the-counter drugs and beverages as money. Vitamin C (100 milligrams) was worth one cent; Centrum multi-vitamins were worth five cents; Vitamin C (500 milligrams) was worth ten cents; Contact Cold Tablets were worth 25 cents; tea bags were worth 50 cents; and the two-quart containers of Country Time Lemonade were worth a dollar.
******************
Leningrad, Russia, U.S.S.R./ Friday, 1 June 1990, 11:26 p.m.
Time to call it a day (I can’t call it a night – it’s still light out – but at least the sun is down.
***************
Leningrad, Russia, U.S.S.R./ Sunday, 3 June 1990, 3:46 p.m.
It’s been fun here in Leningrad. Yesterday we had a nice sunny day and we visited the Hermitage Museum which is located in the czar’s Winter Palace on the banks of the Neva River. I saw some incredible paintings (some Italian Renaissance, Dutch masters, impressionists, etc.) The building is incredible. One could photograph every square inch of the building and still not catch the full impact. Besides the painting, sculptures, etc., the palace itself is a piece of art. I got lost looking for the exit, but in doing so I managed to find some exhibits of early Chinese and early Greek art. Fascinating. You could literally spend days in the Hermitage.
****************
After lunch D, S, T, and I took a cab ride from the hotel to the center of town. There’s an experience. Why there aren’t many accidents in this city is beyond me. Cab drivers here drive the same as they do anywhere else in the world – FAST. We went to the beriozki shop and picked up a few things (D got some wonderful tea service items for only $100). Then it was back to the hotel for dinner and to get ready for our concert.
*****************
Se then went on to the Leningrad Music School #4 for a rehearsal and concert. It went very well. The audience especially enjoyed the American folk songs we did. Afterwards, the students (mostly teenagers and younger) put on a concert of their own. It was delightful. They performed Mozart’s Eine Kleine Nachtmusik along with some other selections (I did not know what) that were just as delightful. Afterward was a reception where the refreshments were wonderful.
*******************
On the bus home, a small group of us sang a little song we made up. It is sung to the tune of
Take Me Out to the Ball Game (with a Russian accent, of course!):
Take me out to the Kremlin, take me out to the Square.
Sell me some rubles and watches, too; I don’t care if you sell Lenin’s Tomb!
Let’s go out to the Palace and look at all of the art;
For it’s, “Nyet! Nyet! Don’t touch that Mon-yet!” at the Hermitage!
Well now it’s 9:53 and the sun has finally set (well, not really set – but it finally sunk below the top of the wall and we have shade in the terminal). In my left arm I have BG’s teddy bear, Lambear. It’s kind of therapeutic holding a teddy bear. B brought Lambear as kind of an icebreaker. The people in the street see him with this bear and they laugh, smile, and hug him, too. It really does have an effect on the people here. We are so used to seeing their “public face,” but Lambear bring out the “private face” in all who see him.
****************
(departing) Warsaw, Poland/ Tuesday, 5 June 1990, 4:40 p.m.
We had a wonderful time in Warsaw. After yet another smooth landing by our LOT airline pilot, we went by bus to the K.I.K. headquarters. There, D and I met our host, DP, and her father. We thin drove to their flat and met DP’s mother. It was a nice place, and D and I each had a room of our own (the den and DP’s room). DP speaks English pretty well, but her parents don’t speak it at all. D and I got a little meal and went off to bed.
*************
The next morning after breakfast (a wonderful one at that) we went back to the K.I.K. From there we took a tour of Widonow (the Polish kings’ summer palace) and had lunch. After lunch, we had dress rehearsal in the Holy Trinity Church (near K.I.K.) This church is where the heart of Chopin is buried. After rehearsal I had some free time to walk down to and around the old town of Warsaw.
***************
That night we sang the 7:00 Mass and performed a concert aft that. Then it was back to the flat for some dinner. After dinner, we had a drink with DP’s family, some dessert, and some laughs. Dan gave them a Lakers coffee mug and I gave them a map of Arizona. And of course we took a few pictures for posterity. (continued in next entry…)
************
Krakow, Poland/ Tuesday, 5 June 1990, 7:56 p.m.
We’ve just arrived in Krakow – I didn’t get much done on the previous entry (we were busy carrying on in the train) so now I will continue.
*************
This morning we had another wonderful breakfast with DP’s family. Then her father drove us (with DP accompanying us, of course) to the K.I.K. There we said goodbye to her father, then to DP.
**************
The weather was a little cold today, and the sky was overcast. After loading our luggage onto the bus, we went outside of the city to the birthplace of Frederick Chopin. There we had the opportunity to look at the house and enjoy the spacious gardens on the grounds. We were to go to a recital in the house, but we had to wait for a little while. You see, there was a cardinal from the Vatican who was visiting n a diplomatic mission. It was not too long of a delay and I did see the cardinal and his entourage (and TV crew), and thought it to be a nice photo opportunity as well.
***************
The recital was good – in fact we enjoyed it so much, there was an encore – the first piece Chopin ever wrote – at age 7.
*****************
After that was lunch and the bus ride back to Warsaw – and another new song (to the tune of My Bonnie Lies Over the Ocean):
